Rødvig Lime Milk

Rødvig Lime Milk
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Rødvig Lime Milk

Product Description 

Lime milk is stirred whitewash. The mixture consists of 1 part Rødvig slaked lime putty and 5 parts Rødvig lime water. 

Lime milk is available as the normal white lime milk, but also as coloured lime milk, where the colours are adjusted on request. First, small test samples with code numbers are given, and we always recommend that these tests are used on the relevant base, as different bases can give different colour shades. 

Field of Application 

Rødvig lime milk is partially ready for applying to plastered facades, interior plastered walls and ceilings.

Packaging 

Lime milk is stored and sold in 20-litre plastic buckets with hermetic lids. The purpose of the lid is to stop the passage of air and thereby a quick hardening on the surface in form of a layer of lime crystals CaC03. 

Additional Information 

KALK A/S has been the market leader for many years with products used for renovation of conservation and listed buildings among others. The products can also be used for new construction because of the good physical properties of the material:

  • Great flexibility in use
  • Great elasticity and adhesion
  • High tensile strength
  • Good porosity, which provides excellent insulation and moisture conditions.
We have extensive experience in assisting clients in the use of our products. The technical guidance, which we can offer, merely serves to aid you with experiences. Therefore, we do not take on the responsibility of being planning technicians. With regards to renovation work, we can refer to technicians who are familiar with renovation work on buildings worthy of preservation. 


Guidance

Mixing

Pigment powders for lime milk should be lime-proof and fast. They are soaked in lime water, approx. 1 part pigment powder for 1 part lime water, at least 24 hours before use. By using e.g. lids, you stop the passage of air. The soaked pigment pasta must be blended before it is measured, and mixed with the stored stirred lime milk. 

The mixed whitewash (lime milk) is known to be able to carry up to 10% pigment powder without any significant smudging. There is no space for more pigment grains between the lime crystals. Therefore, coloured lime will never have a very dark pigment.

It may be a good idea to glaze with coloured lime water with the same colour pigmentation as the desired coloured lime milk. The glazing also serves as a constant base colour, and when the base colour is the same as the coloured lime milk, the colour of the base will not appear grey and boring, even after wear and tear.

Before the coloured lime milk is mixed, you should always do test-mixing and test-coating. After the surface has dried, it can be determined whether the pigments are right or if they should be changed. Always remember to note down the mixing ratio.

As mentioned earlier, you must never put more than 10% pigment powder in the lime milk. It is therefore recommended that you dose less than 10%. Experiences show that approx. 7% is usually sufficient. You can begin with 3 different dosings:

E.g.:
100 cl. applicable lime milk: 10 cl. pigment pasta (10%)
100 cl. applicable lime milk: 7 cl. pigment pasta (7%)
100 cl. applicable lime milk: 3 cl. pigment pasta (3%) 

Once you have chosen your dosing, the large amount is mixed after the same principle. You should always mix enough for the mixture to be able to cover the entire wall, i.e. from corner to corner, all the way up and down.

Execution

Whitewashing on newly plastered base

The mortar base, on which you want to carry out a subsequent finishing treatment with lime milk, (whitewash with or without pigment), should always be based on lime mortars or Rødvig jurassic lime 36 mortars, as they crystallise according to the hardening, allowing the lime to set more easily and at the same time, giving the air an optimum access (with its content of carbon dioxide CO2). We advise against the use of cement mortars, as they are too dense and smooth.

Before whitewashing, the plaster should be carbonated in the surface. This takes at least 3 to 4 weeks, and it is ready when the mortar is dried up and appears white.

Preliminary treatment:
The facades are cleared of mortar spatters or the like, without the use of acids. 

Watering down:
The watering down of the base is done by using a hose with a spread nozzle set to spread. An area of the wall is watered down until the wall is shiny (not soaking) and then becomes dull. 

Preliminary treatment with lime water:
It is recommended that after watering down, you coat or spray some lime water on the wall before the whitewashing is to be carried out. Lime water serves as a natural binder and at the same time, it seeps a little into the surface of the wall. The watering down ensures that whitewashing is done wet-to-wet, making the lime blend together more easily, without dents or stripes. 

Lime milk treatment must be carried out continuously to natural places where boundaries are not usually seen, e.g. one side at a time. This means that you should have a sufficiently large crew, when working with large facades. This process may be interrupted by downpipes or cornice protrusions.

When whitewashing, you need to stir constantly in the bucket of lime milk, both when doing whitewashing and lime-washing with pigments. Otherwise the remaining lime in the bucket will be too strong. If you take a break or after you are done, the bucket must be closed hermetically. 

Whitewashing can be carried out as many times as you want, normally approx. 3 times, and each whitewashing must dry up for 1-3 days. When you have covered the entire area, you finalise by coating or spraying clear lime water at least 1 time.

On particularly exposed buildings, or on a difficult base of e.g. lime cement mortars, a greater adhesion of whitewashed surfaces is achieved by pre-treating with sand lime.

Lime milk treatment must never be carried out in the sun or if the forecast indicates night frost. The temperature must not be below 5° degrees. 

The treatment with whitewash and coloured lime-wash (lime milk) is carried out with a good, thick limer, e.g. a slightly worn hairbrush. You should keep the base damp and stir constantly in the bucket in order to achieve an even whitewashing all the way through. It is recommended that you start with circular strokes and while the lime is wet, you finish off with long, vertical strokes.

A subsequent whitewashing should not be carried out before the previous treatment has dried up, which normally takes approx. 1-3 days. When subsequently applying whitewash, you should only use horizontal strokes. 

Durability:
When following the mentioned working procedure, the whitewashing has proved to last for 5-10 years, depending on the location of the building. 

Whitewashing on old base

1. The walls are brushed thoroughly to get rid of any loose dust and particles, and are then cleared of loose layers of lime. This can be done by using a normal besom and a scraper. 

2. Any repairs are performed by applying a mortar that is as similar as possible to the existing base. The repair is performed in good time, so that it has time to harden before the whitewashing takes place.

3. The watering down of the base can be carried out using a limer, however, the base becomes more even and covers larger areas, if it is watered with a hose with a spread nozzle that is set to spread. You water one piece at a time until the wall is shiny and then becomes dull. Watering down ensures that you can whitewash wet-in-wet, allowing the lime to blend into an even layer without dents and stripes.

4. If the base is of new masonry and plaster, you ground with lime water - using the limer. (Old masonry, old plaster and knocked off whitewash, which is denser in the surface, should not be grounded with lime water).

5. Then you whitewash with the well-stirred whitewash - the lime milk. Whitewashing is done using horizontal and vertical strokes, but many people prefer circular strokes and final strokes to avoid stripes.

6. The second coating should not be carried out before the first coating is set. But with the strongly attenuated mixture as described here, this would already have happened after one day. However, it would be preferable to wait a few days, if possible.  

7. Once you have covered the area with one, two or three coatings, lime water is finally applied to the surface. This finishing coat with lime water helps stabilising the surface, which is of great significance for coloured whitewashing. 

Facades suitable for liming

You can whitewash all facades but some are better suited for it than others. Lime is a breathable and living material, which cooperates with the materials in the wall. However, it varies how well the facade is suited for the whitewash. Some walls are perfect for whitewashing, some you can whitewash if they are prepared for it, while you shouldn't whitewash others.

Requirements for the façade:

  • The facade should be absorbent in order for the lime to adhere. In addition, the surface most have an even absorbent, so that there won't be any colour differences when it hardens. 
  • Next, the facade has to be clean and without any chemicals or salts as it can link to the lime and affect its adherence ability and colour.  
  • Finally, the wall should preferably be breathable (diffusion open) so that moisture can pass through the wall so humidity won't accumulate behind the surface but evaporate from its surface. In this way, you won't have problems with the lime detaching and falling off. 

Facades you should whitewash due to both the technical and aesthetic reasons - lime mortar masonry:
The ideal facade to whitewash is a wall built with lime-based mortar and plastered and rough casted with lime plaster. You'll typically see this kind of facades in older buildings built before 1960, before the breakthrough of cement mortar. A lime mortar facade has an absorbent surface and contains no kinds of additives that can 'disturb' the hardening of the lime. If the diffusion open facace gets a surface treatment that is too dense, such as facade paints, the moisture will accumulate behind the surface and it won't be able to evaporate. This might cause problems with rot and mold in the building. You can whitewash brick buildings, which have had a surface treatment with e.g. facade paints but it requires that you clean it down to a solid base first and possibly repair it using lime mortar. 

Facades you can whitewash for aesthetic reasons, if you prepare the facades - cement mortar masonry:
Masonry built with cement-based mortar and plastered/rough-casted with cement plaster is less absorbent and has a poorer adhesion, which affect the durability of the lime. Since it's also very dense you won't achieve any advantages of the building technique by whitewashing the facade. In return, you'll get a textured surface when using lime, which causes a soft reflection of the light. In addition, you can choose to whitewash due to aesthetic reasons. In that case, you can make it more suitable for whitewashing by coating with Rødvig sand lime first. Do you plan to do a major renovation of the masonry and want to add the aesthetic qualities of lime to the house then you should consider hewing out any mortar joints or areas that are repaired with cement or mortars containing cement and plaster the building using lime plaster. This is because the lime cannot be fastened properly to surfaces that contain cement.

Facades that you should not whitewash - due to technical reasons:
It makes no sense to whitewash a masonry built and plastered with cement mortar and subsequently treating the surface with diffusion-closed facade paint. You can't whitewash directly on the paint and even when it's cleaned off the base won't be ideal to whitewash. If silicate paint is used and it links to the plaster it's not possible to clean off. In this case it'll be better to keep painting the facade. The same applies to the clean concrete wall, which has an even denser surface and thus a poorer adherence.   

Storage

Lime milk should be stored frost-free.

Safety Data Sheet

You can find the safety data sheet for Rødvig Lime milk by clicking on the image below.